Memoirous

This blog is about memories, and one memory that’s been popping up repeatedly lately—not sure why, maybe prompted by a bit of music or the country’s birthday or ICE/immigration chaos—I’m remembering a bike trip, my first solo tour, in Florida beginning of February 2014. I was in south Florida, perhaps a day away from the Keys, and had a Couchsurfing host lined up for the evening at a kind of farm. Of course, I had an address, but I’m not sure I yet had a smartphone, only a flip, which can give GPS. I could use it in a pinch. Anyway, I was south of Homestead in a smallish town and though I’d ask directions—always fraught. Locals rarely know where they are and if they don’t bike have no idea of how to get somewhere without accessing major roads. But, I thought I’d take a chance. There was a mother and son walking down the sidewalk. She had her arm through his and he wore Western-style clothing: a cowboy hat, boots, jeans, white dress shirt. They looked respectable, in other words. What...

There are still a few of us on Facebook—though not as many as in the 2010s, For me, it’s a way to catch a glimpse of old friends, look at holiday pictures, post my bike trips. In fact, every day now there is some new old picture Facebook is reminding me of=all bike trips from the past decade. There’s fall 2015 when I cycled from Pittsburgh to Washington DC on the GAP and C&O Towpath. There’s my old bike leaning against a tree. There’s a pic from my trip to Sweden in 2014 when I rented a bike on Gotland. I had no itinerary—only a vague idea that I wouldn’t get too lost—I was on an island. Last fall I was in Switzerland, Germany, the city of Berlin. I visited friends and rode the Rhine River. There are autumn getaways—such as the jaunt I just took to Traverse City and thereabouts. That, too, will show up in my digital memories. I am followed by bike paths I have followed, the ghost of past trips haunt me both online and in mind. I see they are in my blood and under my skin. W...

It’s all about perspective I do this a lot. When running or biking and hitting a wall, I’ll often imagine that if only I was going west to east instead or, if doing a loop, counter instead of clockwise. It’s a case of the grass is greener on the other side. Many of us go through life thinking like this, and I’m also guilty. So yesterday I finally took myself up on the assumption that if I ran my route in the other direction it would be mostly downhill. Boy, was I wrong! There’s a new track through the woods being developed near me. It starts behind some apartments and winds through the woods, up and down hill. I like this kind of terrain because it breaks things up; flat can be very boring. Ups and downs gets the legs moving and forces me to regulate breathing. The downhill acts as a kind of recovery that, again, pumps me up. Keep in mind: I’m slow and old. Instead of turning left and heading down a hill to access the path behind the apartments, I went right, across the busy ...

I’d camped here before and really enjoyed the leisurely packing up and getting going—by 7:30 I was off. Very slow. I kept stopping to adjust. It was chilly and again drizzly. In Itasca I got a chance to use my immersion stick to heat up water and make a hot tea. I ate a bar and tried to knock some of the built up yukka on my bike that accumulated due to rain and being on a gravel and broken asphalt path. It was more than a baby wipe could handle. I was on mostly roads. Dewitt turned into a long gravel segment, but again the rain made it a hard-packed surface. My butt and thighs were sore and I had to keep stretching while in the saddle. It was a lot of miles for a spring ride, first of the year, without a lot of training. Again, ate lunch in St. Johns and purchased a Gatorade for the last push home. There is the gravel path to Krepps, a mile or two of hard surface, then 2.5 miles of gravel, then maybe 5 more miles on asphalt with rollers, ups and downs. By the time I turned off f...

I scurried to set up my tent for stealth camp just minutes before the storm hit. The weather cleared the park, but also meant I didn't set up beneath a shelter like I'd intended. I got the tent up and clambered in with my stuff to sort out inside. Water unfortunately got in and I had to deal with that as well as residual clamminess. There was nothing to be done about it: It was a soggy night. But, quiet after the storm. In the a.m. I had to pack up wet and sort've wet stuff. I ate hot oatmeal at the shelter and used the restroom before leaving at 7:30. It was hard going. I was supposed to follow Fallasburg Park road to eventually meet up with Flat River trail, but ended up on Lake Lincoln Hwy, which seemed busy for a Memorial Day morning. I took McPherson to get on the trail which is "recycled asphalt"--it was horrible stuff. I only made maybe 8 miles an hour on it. It was like riding on a broken down roadway. I continually had to keep gearing down and my bo...

I rode through cottonwood drift falling around me like snow from the sky. Beside the path white and fuchsia wildflowers bobbed their little heads. The day was warm but not too hot; the sky was blue dotted with clouds—but I knew that storms were predicted for later on! In St. Johns bathroom doors were locked, drinking fountains dry. I ate a little and then rode on, using the Shiawassee Trail. At Fowler I texted a work mate who lives in Ionia to see if he wanted to meet up. Yes! He rode to Lyons where we went on to Saranac. I’m glad Jeff was with me as the trail, though level and scenic, can also be a bit boring. After Jeff turned around, I was a bit tired and took a break before starting the road part of the trip to get to Fallasburg Park. The road went up, leaving the river. It was about 11 more miles to the park. The North Country trail also goes through the park. Right before the park is what Wikipedia describes as an abandoned village. Established in 1837, it went into decline ...

Bike Life is a podcast from Warmshowers.org, a non-profit group that connects bicycle tourists to hosts. The organization is world-wide. For example, I was able to stay with hosts on my Rhine River ride in Koblenz, Koln, and Karlsruhe, Germany as well in Strasbourg and Egsheim ,  France. Doing this allows me to actually pursue international bike travel. After the costs of airline tickets and surcharges for bringing the bike, I can save some money not having to stay in hotels the entire time and ALSO connect with locals. My host in Strasbourg, Florian gave me great tips for getting out of the city, told me all about Egsheim and how great is is, then proceeded to help me by saying to stay on the German side of the Rhine after visiting my friend in Freiburg. These kinds of “insider” info has at time made all the difference in a trip. I go from just following directions to understanding a place or region, clued in as it were to only stuff a local cyclist would be able to share. I was...

There’s always pre-trip jitters. I’m not sure if this will ever go away. At the bike shop several of my co-workers have used services such as someone to haul their stuff from hotel to hotel—in one instance the husband and in another someone recommended by the guide service. They have also used guide services who plan EVERYTHING. Of course, my approach has been way different. How do poor people travel? 1) I hopped on this deal when it was first introduced on Facebook. I thought it was a scam. $600 RT tixs to Zurich, that’s tax included. I added like $30 trip cancellation protection (because COVID is not going away) 2) I do all the arrangements and itinerary planning myself—thus, all the headaches. 3) I stay at Warmshowers or hostels. Friends are also along the way. 4) Food is from grocery stores, bakeries. 5) As much as I can, I pre-book—thus, the NEED to attend to and stay on itinerary in order to make a train, etc. Here, though, I can also train to the train if I’m caught short. Yet...

Warm Showers hosts a podcast called Bike Life . As I’ve been prepping for my Rhine River Ride  I took the opportunity to explore the website further and—what the heck!—sent in my profile. Last week I got an email asking for a pre-interview and then yesterday recorded a 20-minute sit-down. The show will be posted and able to be downloaded soon and also available on YouTube. I sort of went over my personal history of bike touring and introduction to Warm Showers. We didn’t even get to my cross-country bike trip during the pandemic (in which I didn’t really use Warm Showers except for in Missoula). I had originally pitched the interview as riding during the pandemic. Tahverlee the host likes to work unscripted and steadily built the conversation based upon my responses. We ended up discussing stealth camping and some of my adventures and misadventures doing that. I do love camping by myself in off grid areas—selectively. Anyway, they’ll post in the show notes links to my blogs and...

Cue the music, “Heat wave, havin’ a heat wave, tropical heat wave, certainly can-can.” I slept fitfully all night long as there was the heat, humidity, and some guy shooting off m80s. I was ready to leave at 7:30 . . . it just takes a while to pack up and get going. The roads into the the campground are sandy, silty and therefore catch my rear tire. I had to proceed cautiously. In Gregory I tilted back a cold tea that did wonders and I next stopped again 10 miles from home at a little church on the corner of country roads, Buckley and Holt. There I applied more anti-chafing cream and drank a full 22 oz of lemonade. This again helped. It was a great ride, ridiculously easy despite the temps being oppressive. My clothes were full of salt from sweat—when I got home I immediately showered and did laundry. I was invited to go to the beach and declined—happy to just be clean and in AC.

What a lovely ride! Yes, it is scorching hot. It seems I only get days off for extended bike trips that coincide with heat waves. Still, I'm grateful. I packed Saturday night after work and got up and off early. Temps were moderate when I left as were winds, WSW, which was mostly good. Being Labor Day weekend and Sunday, the roads were empty. It seemed like in no time I was in Stockbridge Township where I picked up the Mike Levine Lakeland Trail heading east. In another few miles I was in Gregory where there is a well stocked market. I got Gatorade, chips, and a decadent treat that will last the entire trip. After Gregory  I stopped for an early lunch besides the trail. There are very few benches and picnic tables. After eating it had warmed up, but not bad. The sky was a summer blue with little puffy clouds and the meadows were wreathed in wildflowers edged by spruce trees. I really felt like I was in another land. I missed my turn to Hell. I know, it sounds worse than it is. The ...

Yes, I’m on my bicycle nearly EVERY day; I commute to and from work and do all grocery and other errands on the bike. But that doesn’t mean I’m ready for steady long miles every day. Or should I say kilometers! Last Sunday I went out for what I thought would be a long ride—at least on the maps, but turned into only 33 miles. I’ll have to be much more ambitious with my planning for something longer. I’ve made improvements to the bike with brands new puncture-resistant tires and a new saddle. I’ve also bought a new pair of padded riding shorts and handlebar bag. Of course, none of this is a substitute for butt in the saddle. I’ve 5 weeks to go!

Last year, right after Thanksgiving, when a long winter loomed, I bought tickets to go overseas. My thoughts were thus: the pandemic is over, well, not over, but no longer scary, and I hadn’t been overseas since 2018, and finally, I’ll be turning 65. Why not travel! What lured me into purchasing was that Iceland Air was opening up a new hub out of Detroit and the tickets were essentially the same as if booking to California. Of course with all the extras such as travel insurance and excess baggage both ways for the bike, the total was about what one would normally pay, maybe not during high season, but …. I’ll leave Sept 26 and fly into Zurich where I’ll meet up with Monica whom I last saw in 2001, who I first met nearly 25 years ago. My friend Johanna will come down from Germany for a girls’ get-together. We had all gone camping in Door County in the late 90s, so a kind of reunion. Next, I’ll go back with Johanna and see the farm, where I was last there in 2001. There have been ...

 Eagle Lake Beach to Lansing--well, that didn't happen Wednesday July 6, 2022, 45 miles (72 km) - Total so far: 251 miles (404 km) The plan was to ride home to Okemos from Eagle Lake Beach, but weather set me back. AGAIN it stormed all night long. I checked my phone in the a,m, and it said ending by 7. Nope, then 9. I got started at 9 with my taillight blinking and being extra careful. There was an overgrown trail that bordered busy M-96 past the Fort Custer Armory and Veterans Building. After that I picked up Battle Creek Linear Park. AGAIN beautiful, by the river. So many rivers! I rode through the trees, on planks over ravines and waterways (I was careful as everything was wet and slippery). The North Branch of the Kalamazoo River runs into Battle Creek. Once I left Battle Creek I was on roadways with moderate hills. Humidity if not 100% was close. I could not stop sweating. My cycling gloves were white from salt. EVERYTHING was wet. At least the day was overcast, so no in...

 From along Lake Michigan to Eagle Lake Beach, Fort Custer Rec. Area Tuesday July 5, 2022, 68 miles (109 km) - Total so far: 206 miles (332 km) Well, more than fireworks lit up the sky--add thunder and lightning. It stormed all night long. I stayed dry in my tent and the rain stopped around 7 allowing me to get going at 8. Yet everything was clammy. Humidity fogged my sunglasses so I took them off--as well as the speedometer/computer on my bike. The Ironhorse is a piece of junk. It doesn't stop adding miles--even when I've stopped!! I didn't need it as the Google lady directed me to the Kalhaven trail where I cycled to the end where I met up with the Kalamazoo Valley Trail. The heat was again intense once I finished the shady parts through the woods. As the Kalhaven came to an end it was uphill and the trail was wide through the trees. Very beautiful. At the end is a little park with a caboose. I kept following the KVT through Kalamazoo and along the River to the east...

Grand Rapids to along Lake Michigan Monday July 4, 2022, 63 miles (101 km) - Total so far: 138 miles (222 km) I was still wasted and exhausted from heat and dehydration in the a.m. but got going around 9 a.m. I soon found it hard to breath I was so dehydrated. I had to stop every so often and rest. I made it south of Zeeland to a Mooville ice cream shop where they were offering $2 all you can eat sundaes. I took Market Street out of GR as it was a holiday and no traffic, Market ran into the Kent Trails. So beautiful! After that there was a series of street cues to Fred Meijer Kenowa Trail. That trail continued onto Upper Macatawa Natural Area--another natural wonder, very curvy with some ups and downs. After that it was streets using Google maps and my phone talking me through Holland. I stayed south of downtown. Eventually I connected to Beeline Trail. Again, super nice. I was just soo soo tired. Gatorade just wasn't fixing me. Saugatuck and Douglas were quaint and touristy....

Since my cross-country bike extravaganza in 2020 I've been hard at work. There have been some weekenders and day trips, plus a whole lot of moving around and getting settled. I wanted to do a ride just to see if I still have it in me--to be seen. I'd planned to do this trip mid-May, but came down with Covid and so had to cancel, losing hotel reservations and getting some Amtrak train money back, but not all. On top of that my friend who was to go with me couldn't do it any other time. I decided to use the holiday plus 2 days off to string together 4 days for the ride. Starting in Owosso-Grand Rapids-Holland-South Haven-Kalamazoo-Lansing, not quite a loop. Owosso to Grand Rapids Sunday July 3, 2022, 75 miles (121 km) - Total so far: 75 miles (121 km) The day started at 9 a.m. getting a ride to the trailhead via my son-in-law. It was kind of him to take me, but he was a bit out of it attaching the bike rack--at one point we looked back and saw the bike dangling. We pu...

 This isn’t just something someone says about others who micromanage or who are bossy, we cyclists say it about trying to stay alive. While at the hiker/biker campsite at Sunset Bay St. Park I chatted with some hikers doing the Oregon Coast Trail. The woman said that at one point she was walking through a tunnel. These are tunnels shared with motorists. Supposedly if a button is pushed they have to slow down for walkers/bikers—except she related a story of how when walking through she’d made it almost to the end when a logging truck whizzed through with barely enough room for her and all its axles etc. Her husband was taking a video and we watched her face crumple in terror. By that point it was funny—sort of. They talked about hyper vigilance, focusing on only what is ahead and immediately around you. Cyclists call it staying in your lane or taking a lane. I’ve taken up a whole lane when going down hill as I’m not going to be hurtling down a mountain pushed off to the side. ...

 As I told friends: You can plan a trip, but you can’t plan the weather. I did consider changing my mind, but decided to go ahead—and rode my bike home at the start of what was to be a historic Pacific Northwest Heat Dome where temps climbed to just under 120 degrees. Whoa—a scorcher! I started on Friday and to be fair it wasn’t Portland proper. I was staying in Damascus, south and east of the city. On top of that, I asked my friends to drive me to Oregon City. Yeah, yeah, yeah, I’m a baby. There was a big hill I wanted to avoid. I’d previewed the trip on Google and had a map of the “scenic Willamette Bikeway.” Both mentioned a hill in Oregon City. As we drove up it I saw it was in 2 stages. My friend told me Oregon City is the only town in the US to have an elevator sidewalk. Apparently an elevator takes pedestrians from the lower to the upper half of the town. In Italy, they are famous for their hilltowns where funiculars take folks from the lower to upper half. Nevertheles...

I was in a pandemic. I was sad. I was all alone. I took off on my bike, to ride half-way across the country. A year ago, I was in Iowa fighting wind, a plague of moths, spokes breaking, a sore butt. I was lost. A lot. Thirsty, dehydrated. Caught in the rain. Climbing in my lowest chain gear. Meeting a Welshman in the middle of nowhere. Trying to figure out where I was—metaphysically, existentially, in a time/space continuum. I was eating breakfast sandwiches from Casey’s, Italian subs from Subway, ravioli from a can. I was looking for food after miles of nothing. I was talking a park manager into letting me camp as Covid had shut down everything. Basically I was living for miles and begging for a place to rest at night.   Fast forward.   I have a grandson, a new address, and 2 published essays from last year’s travels (the latest accept by The Account—stay tuned on when it will be available.)