Day 3, lock 6 Hennepin Canal to Bettendorf, Iowa

Sunday May 31, 2020, 66 miles (107 km) - Total so far: 158 miles (255 km)

Last night my neighbor's had a party all night long. They did not go to bed until 45 minutes before I pulled out. That said, I was exhausted and slept well--just the two times I ran out of the tent to potty I heard them.

I again got started early, by 7:30 on the trail. The Hennepin Canal trail is flat and pretty well maintained, actually it is a dream. The only problem is it can be boring. I loved seeing the mist rise off the water, and there are tons of antiquated locks that no longer work and are instead waterfalls for the spawning carp to try and ladder up. There were large herons with primordial wings that make whoosh sounds when launching. I also heard other birds. But, after awhile there was only the crunching of my tires on the tarmac. Trail conditions were a blistery tarmac, hard-packed gravel, and loose rock. At first I was only making 9 mph.

I stopped, but only for like 15 minutes, so of course after 5 hours in the saddle my body was stiff. I was just really trying to get to Geneseo for lunch. I made it completely wrecked and with little water left. The fountain was not turned on yet. I felt like the Little Match Girl begging passersby for water. No one had extra.

I ate and revived a little. My phone finally got coverage and I realized the end of the trail was only 11 miles away. I stood up to leave and a woman came running up with a liter of water; she went to the store and bought it. I was so profoundly blessed.

The next 11 miles went fast. The trail surface was even better than the preceding 45 miles. I made it to Colona and map quested directions to the Channel Cat, the ferry over the Mississippi. I'd checked the website out and everything seemed to be running and they took bikes. I made sure to get there in plenty of time before the last ferry.

Except--they wouldn't take my stuff. They'd take me and the bike, but my panniers were considered cargo. The kid said I can give you a phone number if you want to complain. I said I didn't want to complain, but I needed a new plan to get across the river. Had I wanted to head to Davenport and then Bettendorf I would have angled my approach differently, instead of adding miles by going north to the water taxi landing. That's all.

I called Monique, who I was staying with. She drove over the bridge and fetched me. We had all sorts of early plans to social distance and wear a mask and have me sleep in her back yard. Gone. I'm inside and were jabbering away unmasked.

So I'm in a new state.

looking across the Mississippi