Day 6, Trinidad WS to Ferndale/Humboldt City Fairgrounds, 47 miles

 

Tuesday June 9, 2026, 47 miles (76 km) - Total so far: 311.5 miles (501 km)

This a.m. Carol, my Warmshowers host, said to me: it's mostly downhill today. My response was reserved, I'd like to believe that.

But, first, about yesterday. I've never felt so miserable. And scared, I might not finish. Believe me, I love the hiker biker sites where you can pull into a state park campground without a reservation and, despite it being full, always have a spot. But not all h/b are equal. Such as at Elk Creek. I was especially worn out when I arrived. All that adrenaline from the climb up from Crescent City and the traffic right next to me, no bike lane, then the wrong turn. I could not stop shivering after arriving. Yet, once again, there were no restrooms close by. The sun had slipped below the trees, no direct sunlight to warm up or dry clothes. The Blue Jays and ravens are pests and will steal your food, as well as the bears. I truly felt done.

Then yesterday the rain. All day. Of course I had a good jacket and pants, but nothing is totally waterproof, and your arms are stretched out in front catching all the wet. It was my 5th day of riding and a short day, but instead of being relaxing I was outside in the rSin trying to decide what to do. Thank God for Carol, answering my request

She was in the midst of busyness and just went on despite my inserting myself. She invited me to her birthday party. There were about 9 of us and she cooked the entire dinner--except for the cheesecake. I showered, did laundry, sorted my stuff, started to warm up. A true Godsend.

This a.m. I could have hugged her when she said it was mostly downhill. I didn't want to leave and my stomach was in knots. How could I go on?

I did. And, she was right. It was mostly downhill, nothing wrecking/wracking and mostly off the 101!!!! I could finally relax. I also got a signal so for those few places where I needed turn-by-turn help, I was able to get through, find the paths, and get to Eureka by 11 a.m. in time for lunch. I Googled bakery and ended up at an organic bagel shop

What makes it organic? Is it blessed by a rabbi?

I got a bagel sandwich and sat outside in the sunshine contemplating my next move. That's when the guy from the New York Times showed up to interview me

This is not the first time a newspaper has interviewed me on a trip, but the Times is definitely bigger than the Selby, ND Sentinel. We had a nice chat and he watch my stuff while I ran inside to potty up and refill a water bottle. We'll see if I'm quoted. It was a travel piece about cyclists doing the Pacific Coast bike route. I brought up the hill outside of Crescent City and he immediately knew, 1500 feet in 3 miles, grades between 6 and 12%.

I felt validated for being a weenie.

The rest of the day felt like a bike tour in the early month of June. Not too cold and not too hot, wild flowers, birds, cows and horses in pasture. I'm in a valley in a ranching area. It definitely has a Western feel. At mile 47 I'd arrived in Ferndale to camp at the Humboldt City Fairgrounds. Though, not as cheap as a h/b site I'm loving being right next to the bathroom. No one else has arrived. I'm spread out on the picnic table airing out clothes and drying tent and plastics. The sun is shining, it's windy, but not chilly. I'm relaxed having a tea and a muffin from the organic bagel place. I feel great!!

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