Day 4, Harris Beach SP to Elk Prairie Campground, California, 57 miles
Sunday June 7, 2026, 57 miles (92 km) - Total so far: 229.5 miles (369 km)
Last night at the hiker biker Scott and I chatted. He, too, had a daughter named Grace and lives off the grid in a trailer. I'm not off the grid, but live in a tiny house. He kept saying over and over that I was riding my ass off. He meant it nice. He was just shocked at how many miles I was doing and the various tours I've done. Today, I felt like I was riding my ass off--not right away.
The first 30 miles were easy. Hardly any uphills. A few steep inclines as I was off the 101. The Adventure Cycling maps had me on quiet back lanes.
After leaving at 7:30 ish, I crossed the state line within an hour. Fun! I arrived at Fort Dick, a gas station, around 10:30. I stopped because there were picnic tables, where I could eat the last of my Subway (from ). I'm thinking I'll see if there's a Subway in Crescent City when it hits me: there's picnic tables here because there's prepared food inside. Sure enough there was a small grocery, restaurant, and bakery. I inspected the offering and bought a leg and huge chicken breast, plus a crueller all for around $8. Outside was a tap and I filled up all my bottles. I was ready to go the whole way.
The ACA directions were either a little off or it was me. At 12 noon when it is light light light I have a hard time seeing. Overhead Street signs being impossible. I just couldn't.make sense of the small inset detail on the map.
Finally I made it out to the 101, now call Redwood Highway. The major difference being I lost the nice wide bike lane and was mostly on the road. I knew there was a solid climb coming up, but didn't think it would be major. Well . . . It was my hardest climb so far, over 1200 feet, at least 3 miles.some parts the grade was over 6%. I couldn't do it in one go and was able to stop by a Redwoods National Forest sign where cars pulled up and people jumped out to snap pictures. Good thing because they were driving so fast they likely missed the trees. There was little to no shoulder. I first figured if a car shaved me I'd land in a ditch scrapped up. Then my thoughts shifted. If I was run off the road, the precipitous drop would kill me. I finally just took over the passing lane.
After, my one breather I kept going. It was so tough. My legs were jelly and shaking by the time I made it to a landing place. Then a little down and more ups. I was already dreading the downhill. OMG!!
It was terrifying. Long. Steep. I took the whole lane, which makes sense unless a driver decides to be stupid reckless. But everyone was decent. I took breaks just to rest my hands, tense on the handlebars and grasping the brakes. And to rest my nerves. I'd let the back up go and then re-enter the lane. I made it to the Mystery of Trees tourist attraction and thought I'd puke. Everything inside of me felt done. There were chairs for visitors, so I sat down and scarfed the chicken leg. I thought wouldn't it be nice if someone came up and engaged me in conversation/questions about my bike trip--then I could beg for a ride 10 more miles down the road. Nada. They were too busy looking at their phones. It all seemed a little sad and existential. I mean they were in the Redwoods for crying out loud .
So I kept going past Klamath, when suddenly there was an exit sign, the exit number for the Newton Drury Parkway. Wow, so soon. I had to double back. Okay. I went down a steep hill and curved. The road was broken up. It didn't feel right. I checked my phone but no data. Then . . . I saw a guy loafing his mountain bike into a pick up. I think I startled him when I rode up and asked: is this the Newton Drury Parkway? No, it was Coastal Road. Hmmm.
He told me I'd have to turn around, go up the hill and get on the 101. I just couldn't. I asked for a ride.
Andy was originally from Chicago and it far from my neighborhood. He gave me a snack and a ride to the campground. I missed riding the Newton Drury Parkway, but was so happy not to ride it at the same time. It would have put me close to 70 miles with an up in between. This way I made it by 3:30, only a little wrecked.
So officially in California. Officially 4 days done, 9 more to go. I arrived alive. A good day. Now I'll go out to the meadow and look for elk.
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