Ängelholm to Halmstad
Tuesday June 19, 2018, 96 km (60 miles) - Total so far: 1,177 km (731 miles)
Last night it rained off and on. The wind never stopped. That along with the constant battering of the waves was nerve-wracking. The skies were once again overcast. I left this a.m. at around 8 and followed the Kattegattleden bike route along the coast. The whole morning was stormy. Bilbous, leaden clouds. I was worried I was going to get drenched--or blown over. Winds were sideways at 20 mph.
I deviated from the path and rode up to Vastra Karup and then to Boarp. This required climbing a big hill. I could see the ridgeline yesterday while riding, and I'd heard about this hill. There was no way to avoid it. I got up using my lowest gears, but stayed in the saddle and climbed. I'm glad I approached it from the way I did, going the opposite direction looked way tougher. I rode downhill into Bastad and ate lunch at the harbor.
The Kattegattleden is a combination of dedicated bike path, small roads, and then a strip beside the road. Mostly it is paved, but there are some gravel and off-road forest track. I don't have mountain bike tires and was loaded, but could easily handle these bits. Plus the stiff wind.
Just when I got bored, I again met up with cycle tourists--this time some suave Swedes. We rode together into Halmstad where they'd booked a hotel and I went looking for camping. Halmstad is a much bigger town than I anticipated. I was afraid there might not be camping, but GPS directed me 8.5 KM out of town. First I'd have to pay 16 Euros for a Nordic camping card and another 28 for tent camping. You guessed it--I rode off to look for free stealth camping.
Tonight in Tylösand, a beautiful beach-side community full of fancy homes and golf courses. I found a little grove of twisted pines where I can hear the wind and waves once again, but am protected. Tomorrow Varberg, and hopefully a bed at the Fortress Hostel.
white horses by a wild sea |
barren roads |
quiet Swedish paths |
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