Day 3: Rain

We got up early and struck the campsite. We were actually finishing breakfast when the first drops fell. No problema, we hopped in the car and drove (the wrong way at first) down the road, looking for Toketee Falls.

Toketee Falls is one of the most famous waterfalls in all of Oregon, renowned far and wide for the graceful columnar basalt formation framing the two-stepped falls. The North Umpqua River has carved a sinuous gorge out of the lava flow, resulting in a waterfall of 113 feet in height - a 28 foot upper tier which plunges into a pool flanked by a deep alcove, followed by an 85 foot plunge into a large pool. Despite the 200 steps to get to it, it was an EASY hike.

Again the rain was not so bad.

Then we went looking for Umpqua Hot Springs in the area. This again was difficult as we were clueless. Eventually we found a trailhead (Hindsight later would tell us we could drive closer to the Springs and park for a $5 fee, Next time.) and began a 2-mile hike through thick forest and downed trees. We had to get around crews clearing the path. A woman about my age with a chainsaw pointed out the way. We made it to what can only be described as a Rainbow Gathering.

There were terraced pools laced with naked hippies getting stoned. Of course, I jumped right in.

The water was 108 degrees. I had to take frequent breaks and if I stood up too quickly might keel over. The whole time it was drip-drip-drip from the sky and overhanging conifers.

Late afternoon we made it back to the car, our life boat for a snack. At this point my shoes were wet, my socks, my pants, my skin was wet and shriveled. I was a silly-putty mess. I looked forward to camping—just not in the rain. We talked about getting a motel.

Except there was again not a lot of options. We continued down what seemed like the most “real” road we’d seen in days, past more scenic waterfalls, to Clearwater Falls campground. This is an impressive falls not so much in the vertical drop (about 10 feet) but because it is spread out. Though, in the rain waterfalls feel a little less climatic.

We set up and told ourselves we were just going to shelter in our tents and not really do much else—except change clothes. But within minutes we were also cozy in sleeping bags. It was important to get warm. After about an hour we lit my tuna fish can stove and made dinner. Another form of chickpea soup with crunchy kale and pickled onions. We still had chocolate and cookies.

Stay tuned for the NEXT DAY, at Crater Lake.