Day 9, Weil to Rhein Camping, Waldshut 85 km
Last night Tobias offered to ride me into Basel. We left around 8 a.m. with all the other commuters. It really didn't take long, but that's the point: anything I do takes twice as long as I have to check my phone and map to make sure I haven't messed up.
In Switzerland I follow the red signs. After Tobias left me I followed my paper map to turn away from the Rhine toward Muttenz. I then saw the signs and followed them, ending up in Liesel, where I had to course correct to Prattein. Everything looks a bit industrial. It takes a while to leave the outskirts. I head to Augusta Raurica where there are Roman ruins.
At Rhinefelden I have a choice of how to get across to Mumpf and Stein. My paper directions have me staying close to the river while the other looks like it crosses the interior. I opted for Rhine thinking it might be less hilly. There have been some gut-wrenching steep inclines. A lot of up and down. Straight away I began a climb into a forest. The trail was gravel. I felt too alone and imagined it going on for a while so at a certain point I turned south through Mohlin and did the other bike route. By 1 pm I was in Bad Sackingen, crossing the Rhine to the German side on a beautiful, covered bridge. There I stopped to eat a sandwich and get WiFi. Again, for some reason, I cannot get my phone to connect with the mother ship.
I stayed pretty close to the river, with a lot of ups and downs. Laufenburg was another great looking town, picturesque along the Rhine. There are no longer barges on the river, nor heavy industry.
In my original plan, I was meant to stay at a cute little tollhouse turned bike hostel in Abbruck but I wanted to keep going since I'm intending to end the trip tomorrow at Stein am Rhine and needed to get in more km. Alas, I lost the track there, tried to get WiFi at a bakery but they said, Nein, so kept looking and going. Then there was a diversion. A lady on her bike pulling a baby trailer uphill shouted at me to go to Dogren, so I did.
I was almost to Waldshut when I lost the track again. Suddenly a German biker was beside me, he saw me struggling with directions. I told him I needed to get to Rhein Camping. He said my favorite words: Follow me. We went through the outskirts of Waldshut and then went down a steep hill on a gravel path to ride right next to the river. It was beautiful.
I arrived at camping at 5 pm, where I asked reception for a room. It's very nice, clean, and brand new. Toilet is down the hall, shower on first floor for a Euro. She gave me the Euro. After getting my stuff upstairs and online, I saw there is a grocery just back a ways, so cycled back along the Rhine to a Lidl to get some food for supper and breakfast. Tomorrow, hopefully the Rhine Falls.
Laufenburg |
sunken path |
Bad Sackingen bridge |
from inside bridge |
Taken from inside covered bridge |
Augusta Raurica |
Basel |
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