Swedish Sauna

The wardens here at Tarnasjostuga are a middle-aged brother and sister. The brother huffs and puffs back and forth from the sauna to the hut to update me on the temperature and when I can come down. The sauna is by the lake. He says there is a whole procedure.

I'm not sure if they are his rules or the typical Swedish sauna routine.

He's a bit fanatical about keeping the fire hot. He explained to me not just how to load the stove, but left me with instructions on where to place the next stick of wood.

First, I had to wash the body all over, which was great because it's been days. Then I could go into the sauna, which according to the gauge was vibrating at over 212 degrees F. I could literally boil. I decided to bring in a basin of cold lake water. I splashed my face and, using a loofah exfoliating scarf, ran it over my back, shoulders, arms and legs. I'd only been in 5 minutes and wanted to leave. I felt like such a weeney. I brought in more cold water to pour over myself. I still had half an hour left.

I got the bright idea to throw the cold water on the coals. That only made the room hotter! And steamy.

For the next bit I rotated between being in the room, trying to stand it and running out to breathe by a crack in the window. It was a test of endurance.

I'm not sure I passed.