My first full day off the trail and not traveling, Wednesday, September 3

The rain drummed on the rooftop the night before; I fell asleep to the sound of rain, thinking I'm glad I'm not out in it or trying to get somewhere. My entire Kungsleden had been rain-free.

I awoke on Wednesday to clear blue skies checkered with some fluffy white clouds. I expected standing water after the amount it rained the day before, but the pavement only retained a few dark traces that would soon dry up. Lotta had a plan for the day.

We ate breakfast, again, little sandwiches on homemade seedy bread along with tea. Their house is situated uphill right next to a lake. Lotta said it used to be a small hotel and in fact famous writers used to stay here. It is, indeed, idyllic. She said one well-known poet is said to have stayed here who died of syphilis. I said I hope I do not have his bed. We shared a laugh.

Yesterday because I was tired and at that moment the rain was merely a drizzle we went to a thrift store. That's how I look for unique items to bring home. The cast-offs of old people. Nice linen tea towels, dollies to cover my little table.

Today Lotta said we were going on a bike ride, if okay. Yay!!

I'd gone biking with Lotta when I was here ten years ago and at college at Ohio University where we met many years ago and became roommates. So I had some idea, and I'd bicycled up the coast of Sweden in 2018, that what first appeared like a driveway might actually be a road. Still, for someone like me who needed the bright orange/red blazes to navigate the Kungsleden, yesterday was an orienteering challenge. Good thing I was with the Swedish champion.

Lotta and her partner Anders participate in and organize orienteering events in Sweden. Recently in a major competition they medaled in their age bracket.

We arrived at the coast– of Lake Vattern on 34 km from Tranås in less than an hour after loading the car with her bike and a borrowed one for me. Lotta”s childhood friend had a “summer” home hung on a hill overlooking Lake Vattern and located within a nature preserve, Krakenyd. We parked in An Sophie's driveway and took off on what would be considered someone's backyard. Not even a track, more like the space between cow pastures. Indeed, after about one minute of riding we came to and electric fence. Lotta from her orienteering experience knew what to do. The gate is made of springs and she touched a rubber part where it connected and unlatched it. We rode through and she reconnected it. Then continued on trying to avoid huge cow patties.

That's how the ride went, crisscross private land, logging “roads”, and at times a real gravel road. Let me mention I've never really ridden a mountain bike or done real mountain biking. A mountain bike km is far more physical than a road bike km. What would have normally taken me a half hour to cover took us 3 hours because at every crossroad Lotta would stop and consult one of her three maps. At no point were we lost (if necessary we'd just find the coast) but with the minute roads we were on things could get a bit fuzzy.

We arrived back at AnnSophie’s house hungry and a bit wiped out from the heat. The day had warmed up. We had a lovely lunch on her deck with a view of the lake that could only be described as something out of a home and gardening magazine. Baked salmon, with riced potatoes, salad, homemade buns(everyone is baking their own!!) followed by a homemade raspberry custard tart. As we finished AnnSophie asked if we were ready for a swim.

Lotta had brought a bathing suit for me. The pool was above ground under like a plexiglass hothouse bubble accessed from the lower deck. AnnSophie pushed back a few panels and attached a ladder to go down into the pool. The water was pretty warm though I took my time going in. I couldn't help think I was in the lap of luxury, living someone else's life, not Jane from Okemos, Michigan.We lounged in the sun until 6 pm, commenting: Can you believe this weather! It's September!

by  Lake Vattern, friend's house

Lotta


preview of delicious luncheon














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